Travel Photos - Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

We went with world Expeditions on this trip - it was actually the 2nd week of 2, the first being a safari in Tanzania. The guys from World Expeditions (http://www.worldexpeditions.com/) are professional and friendly, we cannot recommend them enough. It's recommended that you do some aclimatisation before attempting Kili as it gives you a better chance of making the summit. Our safari was good as we were camping at around 2500m above sea level which gave our bodies that time to get used to the altitude.

Kili Mountain Resort to Simba Camp (2700m) 13th Jan 2007
A nervous start this morning with a big breakfast in anticipation of the climb. We arrive at the foothills where over 40 porters sat under the trees hoping for work – 30 would be for our team of 9 climbers and 3 guides – a real expedition. We walked “pole pole” up a woodland path until the heavens opened and arrived in camp (2700m) wet but not tired. Today had been a “piece of cake”!

Kikelelwa Caves (3600m) 14th Jan 2007
We ascended 900m today – 3 hours before lunch and 3 after. We had soup and cake in the 2nd cave. The porters are amazing – they leave at the same time or after us and by the time we arrived at the cave, the toilet tent was up and cake, bread, fruit and salad laid out on the table – the soup was served as soon as we were seated. Again when we arrived at camp, everything was setup with tea and peanuts on the table. The walk today was good. I felt a little weak before our second break – quite steep here. But after chocolate and a banana I was fine. I felt very fresh the second half of the day (rain again!) and Helen seemed strong too. I’ve had my fingers crossed for us both – and the group. I hope we all make it. Tonight at 3600m (11° C in tent – cold) (Dave 78bpm, Helen 72bpm)

Mawenzi Tarn (4330m) 15th Jan 2007
Another 750m today but no rain. The terrain was rocky and steep but the slow pace made it quite manageable. Beginning to notice the altitude – trying to do anything quickly gets you out of breath. As we walked today we crossed a lot of volcanic fall out – pumice rocks and scree. As we scrambled over some Steve pointed out a large “toobe”, where the lava had flowed so fast it made a wave and then set, having a hollow centre. I found my heart shaped pumice at the beginning of today’s walk. Tonight at 4330m we arrived at camp for lunch (“owl pellet” sausages and roast potatoes) and snoozed in the afternoon. Helen and I sat in the tent after popcorn and sang songs with the mp3 player!!

Kibo Hut (4700m) 16th Jan 2007
A straight forward trek today of 4 hours across the saddle between Mawenzi Tarn and Kibo – it was like a desert, truly amazing. The last 50m was tough – we got a move on because rain was threatening and going quicker than normal we all felt the extra elevation. Fingers still crossed, I’m hopeful that we’ll make it and almost getting emotional. This morning both the ground outside and out tent zip was frozen, it was 9 °C in the tent – it’s cold in here now (4:30pm) and I’ve 3 layers on top and two below. I’m not looking forward to trying to sleep tonight.

Horombo (3700m) 17th Jan 2007

Well, as you can see from the piccies, we made it! All the way to Uhuru Peak – 5896m. It really hasn’t sunk in and we are shell shocked completely by the effort it has taken and the debilitating affect of the altitude – 3.5 miles above sea level. We were woken at 11pm after 4 hours sleep. At 12:15 we set off with head torches after biscuits and tea to the volcanic screed slopes. The slopes were frozen and we soon encounter deep snow and rocks as we zig-zagged our way up the mountain. The first half was fine – my breathing was controlled and I felt strong. A wall of snow at a 45 degree angle loomed above as far as my torchlight would allow me to see - a scary sight – this felt like a real expedition. We stopped briefly for drinks but it was too cold to hang around and after about half way my platypus nozzle froze so I tucked it in my neck scarf. Time dragged as we wearily plodded relentlessly in the dark and breathing became difficult. As we neared the top (Gilman’s point) Helen started to struggle – we had been hiking for over 5 hours in the dark and we were approaching 5700m. We paused briefly at Gilman’s before resuming our hike – now around the crater rim to Uhuru. The scenery was breathtaking but it was too much to take in; looking up from my next foot placement would send me into a dizzy spin which could potentially culminate in me toppling down the rocky crater slopes into the bowels of Kili itself. The route was well trodden snow but all around waist deep snow crystals twinkled in the light of the rising sun. But I couldn’t sight see, I couldn’t concentrate or think or breathe or walk. My head pounded and nausea gripped my throat. But somehow I made it – Helen and I encouraged each other, pausing slumped over to gasp for breath and rest weary limbs. Everybody was struggling, even some more so than me. Fraterin (the expedition leader) took Helen's pack and Charlie (lead guide) her hand to prevent me crumpling in a heap at the side of the snow trodden path. Eventually after what seems like an eternity we’d made it but all we wanted was to be back at Kibo. It was now 7:40am and respite was over 3 hours away down steep and loose screed. After a brief lunch we trekked another 2.5 hours to Horombo – at 3700m the air feels luxurious here and we are shattered. The hardest day of our lives and I cannot move another step.


Marangu (1900m) 18th Jan 2007

Descend to Marangu today not before the tipping ceremony and a song from our guides and porters - they have been an amzing bunch – really painful toes from “skiing” down Kili screed slopes – an agonizingly long way home, which should have been an easy trek.


Moivara Coffee Plantation 18th – 20th Jan 2007

Rest and recouperation – bought souvenirs and shipped them home.

Travel Photos - Highlands, Scotland

Scotland - I'd spent so much time driving all over it for work but only occasionally had the oppurtunity to stay up there and enjoy it. This time, we decided to have some time off and really get out there and discover what it was all about.

We went to the Highlands of Scotland and based ourselves in Fort William - we tried to get a room in the Cruachan Hotel - an old favourite of mine - the host was just like Basil Fawlty but that was going back a few years. We couldn't get a room at the Cruachan (so Basil must have moved on) so instead stayed at the more reasonable travel inn but even they couldn't accommodate us all the nights we required so we treated ourselves and stayed at the Glenspean Lodge (http://www.glenspeanlodge.com/) at Roy Bridge just outside Fort William. This we can highly recommend - a well stocked bar/wine cellar, beautiful food and set amongst some outstanding natural scenery, it couldn't be better.

After filling our faces and trying more than our fair share of whiskies in the Glenspean Lodge, we headed off the next day to tackle Ben Nevis or "The Ben" as its affectionately known. The weather was good and the forecast was great. We parked in Glen Nevis, the traditional starting point and headed off. The weather was amazing as the photo above tells you - this was taken once you'd walked out of the Glen and started to climb. The views were fantastic.

After about 3.5 hours we reached the summit and were amazed to see snow, not just bits here and there either. There was about 4 foot of it and so near the edge that you couldn't safely stand there incase it was a cornice you were standing on, you just didn't know - see top photo - be warned, this was the month of June when we were walking aswell! This is as high as you can go in the UK and at 1344m its a little chilly even in the summer so go prepared.

For the decent, we decided to forego the abseil route down and headed for the more traditional, if not a bit scary Càrn Mòr Dearg Arête (see photo above). You need some modest scrambling techniques and a real head for heights. This gives amazing views all around and if you stop and turn around will give great views of the cliffs of the north face of "the Ben". It really gets your heart pumping in places.

Another day, we headed south of Fort William and drove through Glen Coe - that is an unbeliveable experience - the place is so huge with massive hills all around you and it really feels like you've stepped back in time to the days of the famous massacre of Glencoe - it has an eiry feel to it. We headed through Glen Coe and parked at the car park at the start of the descent down. We were tackling the Buachaille Etive Mor today or as its known to the climbing fraternity - "The Buachaille". From the A82 south of Glen Coe, the Buachaille looks like a perfect pyramid.

This is a great walk and from the top gives many options for routes to walk. The views aren't bad on a clear day aswell! The photo above shows the south entrance to Glen Coe from the summit. We passed a little snow here aswell.

You have so many walking options here in Scotland that its quite frustrating to pick the ones you want to do, frustrating because you have to leave other routes for another day.

Another great route is the Ring of Steall on the other side of Glen Nevis to that of "The Ben". This is another great walk. Drive to the end of Glen Nevis and continue to walk up the Glen until you reach a peaceful and flat valley floor - here you will find a wire bridge to cross (good fun!) and then go up and around the Devils Ridge to Sgurr a'Mhaim - you have a choice of routes but the Devils Ridge is a real thrill and has amazing views - again you need a good head for heights but its worth it.

One of the best experiences was on the way back home - we drove south through Glen Coe and then after starting to descend you reach some hairpin bends going down into the valley. On one of these bends is a layby where deer hang out occasionally. They are amazing, so serene and quiet. They are quite used to humans but please don't feed them! The views here are still amazing!

Scotland is far more than stag and hen parties in Glasgow and Edinburgh, its far more than the Edinburgh Tattoo or even the Edinburgh Festival in August. Venture out of these 2 cities and head in pretty much any direction and there is a whole outdoor life. The Borders, Fife, Aberdeenshire and even Dumfries and Galaway (just north of Carlisle). The trekking and walking oppurtunities are never ending, just park the car and walk for about an hour and you'll start discovering this fantastically beautiful country.

Travel Photos - Las Vegas, Nevada

Las Vegas! Whatever anybody ever tells you, you've just got to go yourself to experience it. Some people say its tacky, others say I'm not into gambling so won't go, others simply love it but you've got to go at least once in your life to see it for yourself, whther you're into gambling or not. Where else can you see the New York Skyline over the road from the Eiffel Tower and just down the road from a pyramid?

Vegas totally exceeded my expectations. I was nervous about visiting this city. I was sure it wasn’t me – bright lights, late nights, busy streets, glitz, glamour, cheese and above all, casinos, just weren’t going to be my cup of tea. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Checking in at the Luxor (http://www.luxor.com/) I instantly felt at ease – the place was full of “normal” people and nobody was particularly over dressed. I was relieved my linen trousers and casual shirts would fit in here!

Once I’d breathed a sigh of relief I began to take in the surroundings – this wasn’t a hotel, it was another world! Men in suits drank cocktails in a posh bar with black leather seats, cars danced circles on revolving stands, huge Egyptian statues glared down from double story heights and people pumped money into row upon row of psycadelically lit slot machines. I had an insatiable urge to see more – this was a huge playground! It wasn’t just bars and casinos – there was so much more to see – concerts, cabarets, musicals, exhibitions and even the Professional Bull Riding World Finals. We were totally spoilt for choice.

We didn't stay long here but we had a busy 3 nights and 2 days here. It took me a while to get into the gambling, but free drinks whilst playing helped ease me in nicely and then I was hooked – 21, poker, Keno and roulette. I didn’t realise you could have so much fun sitting down! I was surprised how easy we could while away the hours just sitting tapping buttons at the slot machines – 3am wasn’t unusual for our stay here! We packed in the shows too, starting with an Elvis tribute - what else in Vegas?! Trent Carlini (http://www.thedreamking.com/) has dedicated his career to the King and he bought many incarnations of Elvis to the stage – black leather, GI uniform, Hawaiian shirts and glitzy bell bottoms in sparkly white. His crooked smile, manly swagger and signature hip swivels were Elvis to a tee and topped with the best of Elvis’s collection it was a night to remember – at times blurring the line between make believe and reality and concluding with a moving rendition of “My Way”. On our last night we took in another healthy dose of intoxicating hit music with the ABBA musical, Mamma Mia. A humorous storyline and a touch of slapstick comedy added to the lifting vibe and we were on our feet dancing for the finale. Real feel good, fun stuff and we came away vowing to repeat the experience in London.

The Professional Bull Riding (PBR) Finals were another unexpected find as we naively made our way to the Thomas and Mac Centre we found ourselves amid a throng of thousands of avid rodeo goers all set for an action-packed bull riding spectacular. Over 6 rounds, 45 of the worlds (mostly American!) best riders tried to outsmart best-in-the-business, mean, unpredictable 1 tonne bulls that bucked like Billy-o. It was a great show – thoroughly thrilling, heart in mouth entertainment and in a setting that contrasted wildly with the NT’s (Australia) Katharine! With all this, it’s hard to believe we found time to wander the “strip” and marvel at the creative genius of Vegas’ best theme-styled Hotel Casinos but you just have to as they are so amazing.

The grandeur of the Bellagio with its 8 acre lake (see photo above) and dancing fountains were mesmerizing and strangely moving, the shy painted ceilings and incredible indoor canal system of the Venetian (see photo below) would have been unbelievable anywhere other than Vegas, the MGM Grand – just that and New York, New York infuriatingly marvellous and even has a roller coaster running through it! Vegas was a whirlwind of excitement and entertainment. I was sad to leave and in a few short days had become quite attached to this bold, pulsating, crazy, funky and intoxicating universe. I was however totally knackered and not sure I could have managed another night anyway! It really has to be seen to be believed and to my utter amazement I actually loved it here, I will definitely be returning one day.

Travel Photos - Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti, Tanzania

If you only go on one safari, make sure its Tanzania! I wasn't really prepared for how much I was going to enjoy this, yes, sure, Helen was into her animals and she had always wanted to go on Safari but I never fancied it somehow. I knew Helen would love it though and I'd even bought a camera especially for the photos we would take, my Canon DSLR! This would become the mainstay of my travel photos.

The group split up into 2 landrovers for our safari - we had gone with world expeditions (http://www.worldexpeditions.com/) which I can highly recommend for this sort of trip - small, personalised groups. On our way to the Ngorongoro Crater, we stopped at a viewing point (outside the crater) to see a few elephant and one giraffe half a mile away with binoculars, we were all in awe of what we seeing - our guides were grinning quietly to themselves. We arrived at the crater rim some 30 minutes later and we were worried of being disappointed in what lay ahead – the view into crater was spectacular in itself but from the rim it looked void of wildlife, apart from a few dark blobs scattered around. Once we descended into the crater however, disappointed we most certainly were not!

It didn't matter were you looked, there was wildlife all around, elephant at 10 o'clock, lions at 3 o'clock, zebras at 6 o'clock, wildebeest at 8 o'clock etc. It was like jurassic park but for real! You didn't have to work at spotting the wildlife, it was amazing. We spent the afternoon in the crater. I would never have believed the diversity of animals and how well they share the area. wildebeest, buffalo, zebra, Thompson and Grant Gazelles, warthogs, hyenas were all abundant. We got close to African elephants and 2 young lioness snoozing on a mound. Later a small group of lions dozed 10 metres from the truck. We left the crater via “Windy Gap road” – an experience in itself!

I loved taking photos here, trying to capture the sense of what we were seeing on film (albeit digital). It was a privilege to be here, it was a truly awe inspiring place, unforgetable and the animals just seemed to take it all in their stride.

At first The Serengeti seemed deserted compared to the crater, here you really had to work at spotting the wildlife but our world expeditions guides were absolutely fabulous at helping us out here. This kind of made it so much more rewarding when you did spot something. The Tanzanian highlight for many – a large herd of elephant, 2 bulls fighting and a close encounter! Our driver got himself between a bull elephant and a baby and the bull elephant didn't take too kindly to this - landrovers can really shift in reverse! Before reaching the Serengeti a herd of wildebeest ran across the road in front of us – single file with thundering hooves – amazing.

The day was topped off (after an hour watching dead grass or was that a leopard!) as we met a group of giraffe on the road nearing our camp for the night (see picture at top of this blog). They are such majestic animals and look even more graceful when running somehow - they are Helen's favourite!

The next day’s highlight would be spotting a cheetah a top a termite mound and having breakfast with the hippos and crocs (see photo above).

A safari in Tanzania is unbelieveable, we thoroughly enjoyed it and would recommend it to anyone, even if they don't think they'll like a safari. We were only there for a week ahead of another adventure in Tanzania b ut we'll be going back!

Travel Photos - Alaska, USA

Alaska! You want to go to Alaska in December?! Yes, we did - December wasn't a natural choice but we found ourselves heading that way at that time of year, so heh, what the hell! Before we got here, we did check with tourist information just to ensure that there would be something to do here and yes there was, not as much as in the tourist season but yes, we could do things, so off we went.

We eventually got here (Anchorage) from Calgary after 2 plane delays and a 3.5 hour flight with a very loud, annoying family sat behind! We checked in to our hotel and then hit the Glacier Brewhouse for a slap up meal and some beer (http://www.glacierbrewhouse.com/). Here is excellent atmosphere, good food and they have their own brewery onsite, how perfect was this after a rubbish day travelling?!

We spent a lot of time moose spotting in Anchorage and the best place we found was round by the airport of all places; particularly notable was a mother with her two “teenagers” 50 metres away in open parkland. We watched them through the binoculars and were fascinated. They are strange looking creatures, with big long noses, huge bodies and gangly legs but are beautiful and just like giraffes look docile and dopey. As we left Anchorage it began to snow and we saw little of the scenery as we drove to Seward. We were driving on snow packed/icy on the roads - thank goodness we had a 4x4 - it started snowing, it got heavier but we kept going - in the end we were driving through 18 inches of snow but we got to Seward and on the way to dinner built the biggest snowballs you have ever seen. Alaska is another place altogether, you think you've experienced getting away from it all and then you come here.

We looked around Seward and headed back and stayed at Girdwood - charming little place which is at the bottom of the local skiing hills. Heading back towards Anchorage the Turnagain Arm again performed a remarkable trick of nature as the bore tide raced towards us – a single wave, the width of the inlet travelling at unbelievable pace up the valley. We turned and raced it along the roadway, surprised at our unbelievable luck of timing at awe of the natural phenomenon. What had already been a good day got even better when we revisited our moose spotting ground at the airport and hit the jackpot. East of Earthquake Park I spotted a moose near the path, so we pulled in and walked the track to him – but he was coming our way. Slowly, but surely he plodded towards us, hardly acknowledging our presence and we back tracked to a conveniently located fir tree. He ambled on, nonchalantly stopping to munch on twigs either oblivious to us, drunk on fermented berries, or so sure of himself that he couldn’t care less. He was large – his withers head height, with a large, symmetrical rack of antlers and he looked beautiful, a gorgeous old dear, pardon the pun! He was joined by a friend, equal in stature who eyed us closely through the fir tree. The two put on a half hearted rut, I imagine deliberately for the delight of the camera touting tourists that had now assembled before idling across the road to check out the twigs on the airport side of the highway. I was made-up. We couldn’t have been any closer and such a perfect display too. The affable, droopy-jawed were a delight. We simply couldn’t believe what we were seeing. These two beautiful creatures, we felt, had come especially for us.

On another day we headed to the Matanuska Glacier. 27 miles long and 4 miles wide at its terminal end it was an incredible sight from a top the road looking down. What was even more incredible and quite unexpected was a private tour into what felt like the glaciers heart – a vast expanse of snowy white, icy blue winter wonderland. This was the most beautiful glacier we had seen, the heavy snow hiding the ugly grey moraine we’d found on other glaciers. Standing on our own amidst this glacial wilderness was a surreal and humbling experience – mother nature at her best. We also had a snow-dog for company.






The days in Alaska are short at this time of year. Productive sight seeing can only really be achieved from 10:30 (sunrise at 10 ish) to 3:30 on a good day or earlier if the clouds are thick bringing dusk sooner. Today was a good day – for sightseeing, but more so for dog sledding – and this was what today was about. By 11am the sun was out, low as usual, but spreading warm rays across the snow covered trees and giving them an ethereal glow. We were met at Montana Creek by a large bearded man with a friendly smile and an even larger dog, which to me looked more like a well fed wolf than a “sled-dog”. This was Boddie, the daddy, and the other dogs were literally bouncing around waiting to see us down the lane. Yapping, barking, running in circles on short chains, jumping on their kennels – they looked almost as excited as I was about the forthcoming adventure! Despite looking absolutely crazed, all the dogs were as friendly as house pouches, with distinct, individual personalities and all adorable. After hooking them up to the sled they whisked us swiftly through the woods and out to a glorious winter wonderland. Thick snow padded the ground all around, pine trees dotted the scene and the sun glowed warmly on the horizon lighting up the Talkeetna mountain range in the distance. It really couldn’t have been a more beautiful day. Occasionally we stopped the sled to thank the dogs – they were doing a brilliant job and giving us so much fun – they even looked like loving it themselves. It was over all too quickly and after a cuddle with Boddie and Dixie we were gone. But with a twinkle in our minds for more dog mushing adventures one day and thoughts of “What would the Iditarod really be like?” Now that would be a challenge! Hmmm…?!

We travelled to Fairbanks, 65 degrees north, one of the furthest places north we've been so far and had another go at dog mushing with Cathy - her dogs were not as domestic as before and when we took off down a hill towards a hair pin turn at 100mph we did wonder what we'd let ourselves in for. But this was great fun and well worth the trip to Fairbanks - we'd previously tried cross country skiing by just hiring the skis and going off without any instruction - we nearly broke our backs and decided that we would never do that again, it'll always be downhill skis from now on!

The journey back from Fairbanks was a totally different experience to the one up. When we left Fairbanks a chink of clear sky appeared on the horizon under the thick grey blanket of sky and as we travelled south it opened up to reveal blue skies, hazy clouds and a low burning orange sun. At times, in its evening descent its intensity was such that it appeared as though the roads end plunged into a fiery furnace. Compounding the beauty of the snowy Alaskan winter is the low sun and the way it picks out tree tops and mountain summits with gorgeous golden highlights. Apart from a glimpse of Denali on our first day from Anchorage, America’s highest mountain had eluded us. But today, somebody wanted us to see it. As we drove along, wondering where the mountain was and if we could see it, the suns low winter rays lit up a large mountain like a star on a Christmas tree. Was this Denali? It couldn’t be anything else surely. The king of the Alaskan range with its southern face glowing was simply breathtaking in its beauty. We had finally witnessed the elusive Denali in all its winter splendour and I don’t think we could have seen it in a better light (see photo above). Watching the grey, blue, purple and gold hues of Denali wasn’t the only special moment of today. We passed a small group of caribou resting near the roadside – our first wild sighting and a moose munching twigs on the snow covered verge. Susan Chernak Mcelroy cites in her book, Heart in the Wild, that truly wild animals aren’t always stumbled on by chance. Sometimes they choose to be seen. I really felt as though those lovely creatures were there to make the end of our trip special. There is a certain power that lies beneath a simple animal encounter – and I felt it this afternoon like magic stepping out of the forest and into my path.

We stopped in Talkeetna again, had breakfast at the lodge - 6 eggs or 12 eggs for breakfast? Along with the usual hash brown, crispy bacon etc. I went for the wimpy half breakfast - only 6 eggs! We then got our wish as the flights were going out today for flightseeing round Denali. Just me and Helen and the pilot - what a fabulous trip - we sailed like birds over the Alaskan range and the grand Denali that we had sighted from so far yesterday. The power of nature can’t be much more evident than the soaring divide formed form tectonic plate action and the enormous expanse of glaciers that run like frozen rivers between the rugged peaks (see photo above). The enormity of what lay beneath as we circled and dived between the mountains (Foraker, Hunter, Denali and the amphitheatre the Moose’s Tooth) was incomprehensible even with the dimensions cited by our excellent pilot – 60 miles long, 2 miles wide (Khalita Glacier), larger than the Grand Canyon (the great gorge) and 14,000 feet continuous vertical drop of the Wickersham Wall - the largest land cliff on earth! It was the ultimate finale to our Alaskan trip - amazing - we were so glad we came at this time of year. We want to come back to do the cruises for the glaciers and whale watching but December is still a cool time to come!

Travel Photos - Aitutaki and Rarotonga, Cook Islands

Yes, this is paradise on earth! Deep turquoise water; soft, white, deserted sandy beaches; blue sky and a cool breeze. Perfection! Aitutaki is one of a small group of islands that form part of the Cook Islands. If you go to the Cook Islands - its a must visit and if you can afford it, stay there.


We stayed in Muri Beach on Rarotonga at the Muri Beach Resort (http://www.muribeachresort.com/). We were more than happy here, the villas, including tranquil gardens and pool, weren’t far off paradise with a short walk along the sandy beach of the lagoon to various places to get something to eat or drink in the evening.

Lying here on a sun lounger things couldn’t be more perfect; the sun is shining, while fluffy clouds float in the sky and a cool breeze rustles the coconut trees and banana palms. When we arrived, what struck me was how well manicured the island seemed to be – certainly not as rustic as the backyards in other tropical places. The Cook Islanders are proud of Rarotonga – and so they should be. Rugged emerald green mountains soar hundreds of metres above sea level at the island’s interior dropping down to small plateau circling the island which in turn gives way to white sandy beaches and a crystal clear, naturally protected lagoon. Waves crash on the outer reef and an array of coral and reef life keep the snorkelling fanatics happy!

Our trip to Aitutaki was a real highlight - here really was a perfect paradise and we whiled away the day wandering along pristine white beaches, snorkelling in shallow waters and lazing at the waters edge on our own private sand bar at One Foot Island (see photo above). It felt like a special day and that time we spent lying on the soft sand with cool water lapping around us was blissful – I shall remember it for a long time.

Sunset over Muri Beach

We’ve had some other lovely moments here too – I think Helen really enjoyed her Birthday here - she seemed touched when I presented her with some hand picked red hibiscus and a bottle of bubbly for her birthday. We had a lovely stroll along Muri Beach that evening and as the sun set on the far side of the island the sky turned pink and the lagoon lay as still as a mill pond – it was truly beautiful. We had a good evening at the Pacific Resort (http://www.pacificresort.com/). Not having booked a table we end ed up with a lovely spot under a gazebo on the sand – we watched flying fish play at the waters edge and had perhaps the best bottle of wine of our trip – a Seven Terraces NZ Sauv Blanc. We also ate at the sail club, Stefano’s and the Muri Beach Club Hotel, but that night at the Pacific was one of the best. The days would drift into each other, we would laze by the pool and after lunch set out onto the lagoon in a kayak that the resort has. The water was quite still in the lagoon and you could see right through to the bottom. Out in the middle of the lagoon the bottom is sandy and much more tempting for a dip than at the beach edge. We would beach the kayak on the small volcanic motu (islet) of Taakoka and swam out to a series of large coral bommies which teemed with shoals of silvery fish and black and white butterfly type fish so curious they’d stare you straight in the eye, 6 inches from your face! We also saw Box Fish (x 2), rainbow fish, batfish and all the usual suspects. We’d cruise gently around for a few minutes and look behind – sometimes up to 30 or 40 curious fish of all descriptions would be following making us feel like the South Pacific’s very own Pied Piper! We had some gorgeous afternoons – just messing about in the kayak and in the water. We’d scoot around and then jump on with our mask and flippers when we felt like it. Occasionally we would tip the kayak over and we would both fall in, laughing as all the gear floated off. Getting back in was always a struggle and quite humorous! It was a great time here – totally carefree and loving life. It was a special time for me and I shall try and remember always that life is for loving and living and fun like that is the best way to accomplish those feelings. I shall be sad to leave the Cook Islands – we’ve had some good times here and very special moments.

Travel Photos - Angkor Temples, Cambodia

Sunrise over the massive Angkor Wat Temple was a sight to behold - we weren't on our own here as its the real touristy thing to do, but still it was so awe inspiring. It really set you up for the day (or 2) ahead of temples, temples and more temples. Each has its own personality and there are hundreds of them! The temples are the heart and sole of Cambodia - don't even consider just "doing them in a day" - that would be sacrilege!

We stayed at the Ivy Guesthouse in the heart of the Siem Reap old quarter (ivyasia@hotmail.com). It has a lively bar downstairs and is right in the heart of all the restaurants and shops in this part of Siem Reap. Its situated on a corner of a road junction, so is easy to find and all the tuk tuk drivers know where it is as its an old favourite with travellers - get there early though, its only got 7 rooms!

We came to Cambodia to see the millennium-old temple ruins of Angkor, and we spent some rather busy, intriguing and exhausting days doing just that. Despite a preoccupation that this type of historical architecture was of no interest to me I found my self strangely excited as we rode the tuk tuk to Angkor Wat for sunrise. The ruins really are a sight to behold, but I found their awe grew on me and it was not an initial amazement that struck me. I found the more you look and the longer you look the more incredible they become. The extent to which these 9th and 12th century AD monuments have been preserved (especially considering they are constructed from damp –intolerant sandstone) is unbelievable and contrasts starkly with the destruction caused by the sprawling and invasive jungle at some sights.

Angkor Wat (picture above here), including its outer walls and moat really is a giant complex and one can imagine it as the city in its prime. The sun rose in orange waves over the temple throwing glowing orbs of light on the eastern facing temple tops. We toured the Grand Circuit anticlockwise and it was blissfully quiet leaving Angkor Wat at 6:30am. We visited most of the main temples and a lot of the smaller ones.

Over the following days we went further a field to Banteay Srei (picture above here), Kbal Spean and Beng Milea.

A partiular favourite of mine was Ta Prohm (picture above) - it was used in the filming of the first Tombraider film and you can understand why. Whilst other temples remind you of the amazing architecture and skill with which they were built, Ta Prohm reminds you of the power of the jungle. The huge trees that are enveloping this temple are trying to reclaim what belongs to them. Absolutely amazing!

All the temples we saw were interesting and unique – the Grandeur and scale of Angkor; the giant carved stone faces (pictured above) and has relief carvings of battles everyday life at Bayon; the huge entrance gates (gopura) of Angkor Thom with the causeway lined by 54 Gods and 54 devils heads; the beautifully carved terrace of elephants; the isolation and wilderness of Preah Palilay in the shadows at the back of the Royal Palace; the bizarrely repetitive Terrace of the Leper King; and the wonderfully grand terrace of elephants’ the unbelievably oversize trees straddling stonework of Ta Prohm; the huge elephant guardians of East Mebon, so wonderfully preserved; the small and rewarding Ta Som; the unusual dried up pools of Neak Pean; dark vaulted corridors, fine carvings and towered enclosures of Preah Khan; the beautifully small fairy-land like Banteay Srei; the riverbed carvings deep in the jungle at Kbal Spean; and last but most certainly not least, and probably the most atmospheric and incredible temple – experience of all – Beng Mealea with its enormous fallen stone block work, crumpled central tower, maze of stone, roots and vines, eerie pitch black corridors and wondrous historical importance – Angkor Wat prototype and centre of an ancient road connecting several Angkor Cities as well as Northern Vietnam. The list of descriptive superlatives one could use to ramble about the temples is never ending. After some very long days I really felt as thought I’d come a long way, and seen something that really was very special!

Travel Photos - Grand Canyon, Arizona

Our first view of the Grand Canyon was utterly overwhelming. No matter how many wonderful landscapes you’ve seen; nothing can prepare you for this. The Grand Canyon is vast, the enormity of its scale absolutely incomprehensible. Too grand for our field of vision, our brain simply cannot compute its magnitude. Gorges blend into gorges, cliffs into cliffs, 8ft cacti appear like blades of grass and distances become jumbled.

On a clear winter day, like we had on our second day, we could see 130 miles west down the canyon to Mt Trumbull. We were lucky, in the summer visibility averages 60 miles. I’m not sure if I consider the canyon beautiful, but it certainly is dramatic – a maze of rugged battlements lined with cliffs plummeting thousands of metres into deep gorges and punctuated by towering temples, it exudes a kaleidoscope of ruddy hues – reds, yellows, oranges and browns in horizontal layers – slice after slice of ancient landscape laid bare in all its magnificent glory. The sun bounced warmly off the red sandstone but the canton seemed desolate, vacant, distant and uninviting. It was important to get down amongst its sheer walls to see and feel its inner character.

We took the South Kaibab Trail towards Skeleton Point. 360°vistas encircled us every step. Jumbles of sandstone blocks towered above us and suddenly the canyon looked vulnerable. The trail was rough and sandy and the different sedimentary layers we trekked through were clearly marked with sudden colour changes underfoot. We passed Oo-ah Point and Cedar Ridge 1 mile below the south rim of the canyon, but still; most of our view was down. We were however, very much inside the canyon, if not in the inner gorges, my calf and thigh muscles testified to that the next day – walking out of the Canyon was a tough one. No wonder those mules have such large backsides!

The first night, we watched the sun set at Hope Point, west of the Canyon Village. Its cold at night here and as the sun disappeared behind us the depths of the canyon became grey and foreboding, whilst the temple points and amphitheatre type cliffs glowed a burnt orange. Gazing into the depths of the canyon that evening, it was great to just to contemplate life. We took in several view points during our stay – Mather Point (the first and most memorable), Hopi, Powell, Pima (where granite rapids rumbled up the valley), Hermits Rest and along the East Side, Grand View and Desert View – a great one of the river, sheer canyon walls (palisades) and the desert plains. No matter how much I looked at the canyon with maps and diagrams I couldn’t make much sense of the maze of creeks, gorges, island type temples, buttresses and battlements – with a flight directly over the top I thought we’d get a good overview. Flight seeing is always fantastic, but soaring over the canyon in a helicopter is unbeatable. As we left the Kaibab Forest and plunged over the South Rim, the canyon came full into view and we were filled with a surge of adrenalin and awe – the canyon was spectacular from here, even more so that from the rim – the river was in view and routes through the maze clear. The canyon just made sense from the air. It was a wonderful 40 minute flight and I felt I knew the Grand Canyon a little better now. It is definitely a wonder we will never forget.

Travel Photos - Mount Everest and the Khumbu Icefall, Nepal

The view of Everest Base Camp, Mount Everest and the Khumbu Icefall from the summit of Kala Pattar (5545m). There aren't many places were you feel so remote but at the same time in the company of friends - the mountains. Needless to say, the scenery is absolutely stunning with huge 7000 and 8000 metre peaks all around you - phenomenal! Trekking in Nepal is a unique adventure that if you love the outdoors, you'll definitely get hooked.

After a cold night it was a relief to get going – an assault on our final challenge – the rocky buttress of Pumori – Kala Pattar. The ascent was steep and rocky but relatively short – a few hours. The Sherpas and guides from World Expeditions (http://www.worldexpeditions.com/) were fantastic as ever and they encouraged us up all the way. Views from the summit were spectacular – Everest, our closest and most complete sighting yet now loomed majestically above its neighbours – a challenge for the brave and fitter. Nuptse alluring from this angle tried to steal the show above the Khumbu Glacier, ice fall and the pin pricks of colour denoting tents at the capital of the Khumbu – Base Camp. To the left Everest’s West buttress shielded part of our view, left of that Changste, Everest’s North Peak waned for attention and a large snow cornice balanced precariously over the Lo Lah Pass. Right of Nuptse, Ama Dablam again put on an impressive show, chased by Khantega, Thamserku, Taboche, Cholatse, Lobuche East and West – another picture book panorama - 360° round to Pumori and Lingtren. We spent 45 minutes at the summit; we could have stayed there forever. I can only equate it with meeting a VIP of which you are in awe – there is a special chemistry, excitement, marvel. You have to pinch yourself - is this really real? I tried to examine every rock, snow flake and ice crack thru my binoculars, but still it wouldn’t sink in.

There is a magic here and I can just about touch it, we're definitely going back here, Nepal that is. We loved it here, the mountains, the people, the flight into Lukla (a little bit scary) and the excitement in Kathmandu before the trip starts, its all magical!