We went with world Expeditions on this trip - it was actually the 2nd week of 2, the first being a safari in Tanzania. The guys from World Expeditions (http://www.worldexpeditions.com/) are professional and friendly, we cannot recommend them enough. It's recommended that you do some aclimatisation before attempting Kili as it gives you a better chance of making the summit. Our safari was good as we were camping at around 2500m above sea level which gave our bodies that time to get used to the altitude.
Kili Mountain Resort to Simba Camp (2700m) 13th Jan 2007
A nervous start this morning with a big breakfast in anticipation of the climb. We arrive at the foothills where over 40 porters sat under the trees hoping for work – 30 would be for our team of 9 climbers and 3 guides – a real expedition. We walked “pole pole” up a woodland path until the heavens opened and arrived in camp (2700m) wet but not tired. Today had been a “piece of cake”!
Kikelelwa Caves (3600m) 14th Jan 2007
We ascended 900m today – 3 hours before lunch and 3 after. We had soup and cake in the 2nd cave. The porters are amazing – they leave at the same time or after us and by the time we arrived at the cave, the toilet tent was up and cake, bread, fruit and salad laid out on the table – the soup was served as soon as we were seated. Again when we arrived at camp, everything was setup with tea and peanuts on the table. The walk today was good. I felt a little weak before our second break – quite steep here. But after chocolate and a banana I was fine. I felt very fresh the second half of the day (rain again!) and Helen seemed strong too. I’ve had my fingers crossed for us both – and the group. I hope we all make it. Tonight at 3600m (11° C in tent – cold) (Dave 78bpm, Helen 72bpm)
Mawenzi Tarn (4330m) 15th Jan 2007
Another 750m today but no rain. The terrain was rocky and steep but the slow pace made it quite manageable. Beginning to notice the altitude – trying to do anything quickly gets you out of breath. As we walked today we crossed a lot of volcanic fall out – pumice rocks and scree. As we scrambled over some Steve pointed out a large “toobe”, where the lava had flowed so fast it made a wave and then set, having a hollow centre. I found my heart shaped pumice at the beginning of today’s walk. Tonight at 4330m we arrived at camp for lunch (“owl pellet” sausages and roast potatoes) and snoozed in the afternoon. Helen and I sat in the tent after popcorn and sang songs with the mp3 player!!
Kibo Hut (4700m) 16th Jan 2007
A straight forward trek today of 4 hours across the saddle between Mawenzi Tarn and Kibo – it was like a desert, truly amazing. The last 50m was tough – we got a move on because rain was threatening and going quicker than normal we all felt the extra elevation. Fingers still crossed, I’m hopeful that we’ll make it and almost getting emotional. This morning both the ground outside and out tent zip was frozen, it was 9 °C in the tent – it’s cold in here now (4:30pm) and I’ve 3 layers on top and two below. I’m not looking forward to trying to sleep tonight.
Horombo (3700m) 17th Jan 2007
Well, as you can see from the piccies, we made it! All the way to Uhuru Peak – 5896m. It really hasn’t sunk in and we are shell shocked completely by the effort it has taken and the debilitating affect of the altitude – 3.5 miles above sea level. We were woken at 11pm after 4 hours sleep. At 12:15 we set off with head torches after biscuits and tea to the volcanic screed slopes. The slopes were frozen and we soon encounter deep snow and rocks as we zig-zagged our way up the mountain. The first half was fine – my breathing was controlled and I felt strong. A wall of snow at a 45 degree angle loomed above as far as my torchlight would allow me to see - a scary sight – this felt like a real expedition. We stopped briefly for drinks but it was too cold to hang around and after about half way my platypus nozzle froze so I tucked it in my neck scarf. Time dragged as we wearily plodded relentlessly in the dark and breathing became difficult. As we neared the top (Gilman’s point) Helen started to struggle – we had been hiking for over 5 hours in the dark and we were approaching 5700m. We paused briefly at Gilman’s before resuming our hike – now around the crater rim to Uhuru. The scenery was breathtaking but it was too much to take in; looking up from my next foot placement would send me into a dizzy spin which could potentially culminate in me toppling down the rocky crater slopes into the bowels of Kili itself. The route was well trodden snow but all around waist deep snow crystals twinkled in the light of the rising sun. But I couldn’t sight see, I couldn’t concentrate or think or breathe or walk. My head pounded and nausea gripped my throat. But somehow I made it – Helen and I encouraged each other, pausing slumped over to gasp for breath and rest weary limbs. Everybody was struggling, even some more so than me. Fraterin (the expedition leader) took Helen's pack and Charlie (lead guide) her hand to prevent me crumpling in a heap at the side of the snow trodden path. Eventually after what seems like an eternity we’d made it but all we wanted was to be back at Kibo. It was now 7:40am and respite was over 3 hours away down steep and loose screed. After a brief lunch we trekked another 2.5 hours to Horombo – at 3700m the air feels luxurious here and we are shattered. The hardest day of our lives and I cannot move another step.
Marangu (1900m) 18th Jan 2007
Descend to Marangu today not before the tipping ceremony and a song from our guides and porters - they have been an amzing bunch – really painful toes from “skiing” down Kili screed slopes – an agonizingly long way home, which should have been an easy trek.
Moivara Coffee Plantation 18th – 20th Jan 2007
Rest and recouperation – bought souvenirs and shipped them home.
